Baphoun & Phimean Akas: Pyramids of the Far East

Built in 11th century, this was the capital and state-temple of Udayadityavarman II, Baphoun is undergoing restoration and is closed to the public. It has an impressive sandstone causeway, 200m long and raised on three sets of stone posts. Once comprising 5 tiers in the form of a pyramid, it had galleries running round the full circumference on its first, second and third levels.

Suryavarman I constructed his small state-temple Phimean Akas, which Chou Ta-Kuan, a visiting Chinese chronicler in the 12th century upon whose descriptions one gets a sense of life in the Khmer cities of yore, described as ‘tower of gold’. It was the first palace to be built within fortifying walls, but later absored into Angkor Thom which was built around 200 years later. It’s a relatively simple pyramid structure which bears uncanny similarity to Chichen Itza in Mexico. There is a steep set of narrow stairs to the top which don’t allow you to step off on the first two levels. Chou Ya Kuan wrote that the central cross-shaped sanctuary tower at the top (there is no idol, images or places of worship here) was home to a spirit which took the form of a serpent by day and a beautiful lady after dark. Unless the King visited her every night before seeing his wife, disaster would follow. To the north are two paved bathing ponds – the larger for men and the smaller for women. The surrounding area is full of broken pottery which my guide said date back to Rajendravarman’s time; 944-968AD. I picked up a couple a souvenirs.